Dryer runs but no heat: the 3 parts to check (in order)

⏱ 6 min read · 💲 $15–$60 in parts · Updated 2026-09-27 · Share

Ninety percent of no-heat dryers come down to a thermal fuse, heating element or cycling thermostat. Here's how to test each with a $15 multimeter.

Before you start

Unplug the dryer. For gas dryers, also close the gas valve. Pull the machine away from the wall and remove the back or lower front panel (model-specific — check the sticker inside the door for the model number and search "model service manual").

1. Thermal fuse (most common)

A one-shot safety fuse near the blower housing or heating element. It blows when the dryer overheats — usually because the vent is clogged. Set your multimeter to continuity; a good fuse beeps, a bad one is silent. Replace the fuse AND clean the vent or it will blow again.

2. Heating element

A coil in a metal housing. Look for a visible break in the coil, or test continuity across the terminals (a good element reads roughly 8–15 Ω). Part cost: $25–$60.

3. Cycling thermostat / high-limit thermostat

Small round discs mounted on the heater housing. Test continuity at room temperature: they should be closed (continuity). If open, replace.

Gas dryers: igniter and flame sensor

If the igniter glows but no flame appears, the gas valve coils are the usual culprit ($20–$40). If the igniter never glows, test the igniter and the thermal fuse.

When to call a pro

• Burning smell that persists after cleaning lint
• Control board errors
• Any gas-line concern

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